"Dance-Child"

A Maiko, photo by Doug Wiens, April 2014

We traveled to Kyoto, once Japan's Imperial capital for 1,000 years.  Located in the central basin of the main island, it's current population reaches 1.5 million and its economic prosperity relies upon tech and tourism industries, not the least of which is the infamous Geisha quarters in Gion. 

The city's nickname is "City with Ten Thousand Shrines," and that seems very plausible!  After tiring of shrine visits, we went to the Gion District in the evening, hoping to catch a glimpse of a Geiko (pronounced Gay-ko, the preferred name for a Geisha in Kyoto),  or a Maiko (rhymes with 'psycho', an apprentice-Geiko).  We were lucky enough to see one emerging from her lodge just as we passed!  Doug scurried along snapping  photos, careful to keep a respectable distance, of course.  (I am in the distance...she ran really fast!)

This English-speaking tour guide was the best ever!

As a Geiko-in-training, in Kyoto the young woman is between the ages of 15 and 20.  (Historically Geishas began training as young as age 3!)  Distinct from Geiko, she is only allowed red lipstick on the lower lip and her hair has many flouncy kinzache or hair accessories to make her appear more child-like.  She is considered a professional artist and performs at one of Gion's tea houses.  She attends "Geisha school" from 8 a.m. until early afternoon to learn traditional Japanese culture including flower arranging, tea ceremony, poetry and conversation, games, dance and music.  She must learn to play the shamisen, the three-stringed Japanese instrument.  (Do you suppose that is what she is carrying?)  The afternoon is spent with personal matters such as eating quick meals, dressing, running errands, and so forth.)  She must prepare for the long evening spent in a tea house entertaining some of Japan's most wealthy and prominent men.  Interestingly, joining a tea house requires a personal invitation from an existing member, plus assurances of "good" character and adequate financial resources needed to pay the tens of thousands of yen owed annually for the cost of entertainment.  (A fun fact:  Mikhail Gorbachev tried to join a tea house but was rejected.)

Tea Houses and Boarding Houses line the narrow Gion Streets

Each Maiko lives in a boarding house, typically with three to five other Maikos and an owner whom I will refer to here as "Mama".  (Geiko can live in private quarters on their own once they have firmly established a reliable clientele.)  The boarding house owner invests tens of millions of yen per girl.  All lodging, food, clothing, make-up, instruments, and accessories are supplied by the boarding house, and the girl's contact with her family  is strictly limited.   Therefore, it is absolutely essential that the girl deeply desires to become a Geisha.  In fact, the number of recruits is declining rapidly.  Most girls in Japan consider the work to be old-fashioned, too difficult, and even a little 'psyco' because Maikos essentially give up their freedom for a life governed by rules and structure.  Even a brief walk to a nearby shop requires "Mama's" permission.  This year only 60 new girls enrolled, most coming from rural areas.  After a one-year trial period, over half drop out.  Life inside Gion's Geisha quarters is highly regimented and exhausting.  I have read that the roles for some Maiko are finally expanding to include visits to hospitals, nursing facilities, and even travels abroad.  Maybe that will entice more young woman to keep the business alive?

Wooden Plaques for Maiko

This house has five Maiko as indicated by the five wooden plaques hanging by the front door of the lodge. (see right)    Inside, a strict pecking-order exists.   For example, the most senior member enters the bathtub first with the newest member bathing last -- in cold water.  Each kimono costs about $30,000 U.S. and is so heavy that a strong male professional "dresser" is needed to help her get into the gown, with the newest recruits receiving help last.  The Meiko's colorful, wide, heavy sash used to hold the kimono in place is called a darari obi and measures 20 feet long.  Her make-up colors are restricted to white, red, and black.  Her hair is elaborately styled once a week and she sleeps on a hard neck cushion to keep it in place.  She is expected to learn these practices from her elder Maiko-sisters.

Once ready for the evening, she walks gingerly to her appointments in high, wooden platform shoes, with the younger Maiko often under the critical eye of "Mama."  This Meiko stopped momentarily to speak with her "Mama", a severe-looking woman dressed in a plain brown kimono.   The most experienced Meiko and Geiko often ride in taxis from place to place so visitors hoping to spot one in Gion should keep a look-out inside the taxis as they pass through the narrow streets.  If you aren't lucky enough to see a Geisha, you might spot a famous politician, business man or public figure on his way to the tea house instead!!  Who belongs to each tea house is a great secret in Gion, the most prestigious Geisha district of the remaining five in Japan.   Either way, a good sighting is well-worth your patience!  

Note:  For more information, Wikipedia has a decent article on "Geishas".  It can answer many of the questions that I deliberated left unanswered here.