Ryokan and Onsen--Worth the Splurge

Socks and Sandals Only

We took a train ride about two hours north of Tokyo to Nikko, an historic town and favorite weekend-getaway spot.  We stayed in a Japanese inn called a Ryokan where guests wear kimono robes called Yukata, sit on cushions, and sleep on futons placed on a tatami-mat floor.  Our muddy hiking boots were quickly whisked away and we were presented with socks, sandals and cotton robes.  During dinner our comfy futons were taken out of the closet and set up for the night, and during breakfast they were re-shelved and the room rearranged. 

Beds Prepared for Night

The first order of business was learning how to properly wear a Yukata for one is worn throughout the inn, including during meals, and outside in the garden during summer.  First of all, it is not a bathrobe!  Because we arrived in winter, a short coat called haori was also provided for warmth.   To properly don a Yukata, both men and women wrap the RIGHT side of the kimono over the body FIRST.  Then the LEFT side overlaps the RIGHT.  Note:  Right on top of the left is only used to dress a corpse for burial.   Double knot the robe sash in the front and then turn it until the knot is center back.  Then relax.  The robe is very comfortable and you won't want to take it off at the end of your stay!  Only the sleeves present a challenge when they fall into the soy sauce at dinner or the syrup during breakfast (assuming you order a western-style breakfast as we did.)  

Just Arrived. Reading  Instructions.

We had a lovely room with a beautiful mountain view.  Yet the most memorable part of our Ryokan was probably the onsen or Japanese hot springs bath.  (Onsen also refers to bathing facilities around the hot, mineral springs.)    In the onsen, men and women have separate baths.  There are a few rules:  NO PEEKING around curtains or through fences to see the other side.  NO PHOTOS.  NO TATTOOS. (A few onsen allow them but not many.)  NO WORRIES.  There is absolutely no reason to feel self-conscious about one's body.  So, you have a muffin-top, saddle-bags, or dimply fat...who cares??!!  Answer:  NO ONE!!!!  Every effort is made to create a perfectly peaceful ambiance.    The experience is intended for purely relaxation. 

Generally, this is how an onsen works...
1.  Upon entering the dressing room, place your sandals in a cubby.
2.  Select a basket for personal belongings.  Use a locker for valuables. 
3.  Leave all belongings in the dressing room.  Take only a little hand-towel with you into the bathing area.
4.  Enter the washing area called the kakeyu and sit on a little stool beside a bowl, faucet and hand-shower.  First fill the bowl and rinse your feet and hands with warm water.  Then pour warm water over your hair and body.  Gradually increase the water temperature and thoroughly wash and rinse before getting into the hot tub.  

A Typical Outdoor Onsen

5.  Slowly enter the onsen, allowing the body to adjust to the hot temperature.  At first, only soak up to half your body height.  Once accustomed to the temperature, soak up to your shoulders.  You may place the hand towel on your head but do not let the towel touch the water!  (This is a big no-no!)  For health and safety, do not soak in the onsen for a prolonged period.  It is better to repeat short periods with breaks in between. 
6.  Thoroughly relax and enjoy. We had baths both inside and outside.  While enjoying the crisp, cold winter air, the beautiful snowy mountainside, the running river, and the surrounding garden, we soaked in silence. 
7. At the end, shower thoroughly and dry off (yes, the little towel is already very wet) as best you can before entering the dressing room.
8. Put the Yukata back on. Enjoy the wide array of lotions and oils. And savor the moment. 

In a private dinner room Doug and I enjoyed a mega-course Japanese dinner of the freshest seasonal ingredients.  The beauty of the dinnerware and food displays, including the manner in which they were served, was simply exquisite.  Our feet were on placed a warmer and the pleasant young waitress enjoyed our feeble attempts to speak conversational Japanese words.  This Ryokan was worth the extra money and, yes, I would do it all over again!